Hand Applique Techniques

Here is the organizational hierarchy of Applique Techniques that I have figured out so far. This includes only completely hand-done applique, and does not include raw edge, Reverse Applique, Mola techniques, etc.

A.  Fold applique edges under as you sew
1.  Cut and go- traditional needle turn
a.  Cut applique piece ⅛” larger than seam line, pin to base, turn under while sewing
b.  Same with stitch basting or glue basting of template to base
2.  Back baste on seam line, cut ¼” larger than template, remove a few stitches at a time as sewing
3.  Front baste ⅛” inside seamline, turn under ⅛”, remove basting stitches when done sewing

B.  Fold applique edges under before sewing. Use ¼” seam allowance around shape.
1.  Hand baste to paper, remove paper after sewing
2.  Glue baste, remove paper before sewing
3.  Starch baste and iron, remove paper before sewing
4.  Freezer paper baste with iron, remove paper before sewing

These white turtles on their colorful backgrounds look good from a distance- but the closeups are a different story.


Here is technique A1a: Cut applique piece ⅛” bigger than seam line, pined to base, traditional needle turn of raw edge.


Here is technique A2: Baste the applique piece from the back on seam line, from the front cut applique piece ⅛” to ¼” larger than seam line, remove a few basting stitches at a time to permit needle turn of raw edges.



Here is technique A3: Baste applique piece from the front, ⅛” inside the seam line. Trim applique piece to have a seam allowance of ⅛”. Use needle turn or fingers to turn under the raw edge to meet the basted line and sew in place. Remove basting thread after sewing in place.


Here is Technique B1: hand basting the applique edges under the paper template. Pin or glue baste applique piece to base fabric, sew around the edges. From the back, separate the two layers of fabric and remove the base fabric that underlies the template (¼” interior seam allowance). This permits removal of the paper.



Turtle Paper Applique

In my hands, so far, I think technique A3 is working best- but there are more techniques to trial. Next task: trial the other techniques above.


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